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1、針織技術(shù)2015年第6期針紐工叢采用新型舒彈纖維開發(fā)羊毛加彈針織運(yùn)動(dòng)面料金雪1,王志強(qiáng)l,張國成t,張連根2(1.常州旭榮針織印染有限公司,江蘇常州213017:2.上海連晟紡織品有限公司.上海200333)摘要:介紹新型舒彈纖維MicroStretchTM(簡(jiǎn)f~MS)基本性能,如耐高溫性、耐強(qiáng)酸強(qiáng)堿性、環(huán)保性等,并與普通氨綸進(jìn)行對(duì)比。選用14.7tex(40)羊毛、錦綸混紡紗(混紡比為80:20)與4.44tex(40D)MS舒彈絲交織編織添紗平針組織。在單面針織大圓機(jī)上開發(fā)一款新型羊毛加彈針織運(yùn)動(dòng)面料。詳
2、細(xì)闡述設(shè)備參數(shù)、織針排列、三角排列、注意事項(xiàng)等編織工藝,以及預(yù)定形、前處理、染色等染整工藝,并對(duì)成品各項(xiàng)性能進(jìn)行測(cè)試。結(jié)果表明,該面料吸濕排濕性好,縮率及扭力、頂破強(qiáng)力和色牢度等均符合羊毛運(yùn)動(dòng)面料的要求,同時(shí)MS舒彈絲制成的針織面料無須高溫坯定,尺寸穩(wěn)定性好,產(chǎn)品品質(zhì)優(yōu)良,為高檔毛針織產(chǎn)品的開發(fā)提供思路。關(guān)鍵詞:羊毛彈性針織面料;MS舒彈纖維;生產(chǎn)工藝;性能測(cè)試;尺寸穩(wěn)定性中圖分類號(hào):TS184.4文獻(xiàn)標(biāo)志碼:B文章編號(hào):1000—4033(2015)06—0017—03DevelopmentofWool-bl
3、endedElasticKnittedSportsFabricUsingMicro——StretchTMJinXue,WangZhiqiang,ZhangGuocheng,ZhangLiangen(1.ChangzhouNewwideKnitting&DyeingCo.,Ltd.,Changzhou,Jiangsu213017,China;2.ShanghaiLianshengTextilesCo.,Ltd.,Shanghai200333,China)Abstract:Basedonthebasicperfor
4、manceofnewMicro-StretchTMfiber,suchashigh,temperatureresistance,anti—acidandalkaliproperties,andenvironmentalprotectionpropertiesandSOon,andcomparedwiththatofcon—mOBspandex,thepaperdevelopsanewkindofwool—blendedelasticknittedsports~briewithplatingplainpatter
5、nbyusing14.7texwoolandnylonblendedyarns(80:20)and4.44texMicro—StretchTMfiberinter—knittedonsinglecircularknittingmachine.Italsointroducesindetailtheknittingtechnology,includingequipmentparameters,nee—dlearrangement,camarangement,andthedyeingandfinishingtechn
6、ology,suchaspre—setting,pre—treatmentanddyeingandSOon.Theresultsshowthatthiskindofnewfabricpossessesgoodmoistureabsorbingandtrans‘ferringproperties,lowshrinkageratesandtorsion;theburstingstrengthandcolorfastnesscanmeettherequestofwool—blendedelasticknittedfa
7、bric;thefabricalsohasgooddimensionalstabilitywithouthigh—temperatureforpre—setting,whichcanprovideacertainreferencefortheinnovativedesignoftopclasswoolknittedfabric.Keywords:WoolElasticKnittedFabric;Micro—StretchFiber;KnittingProcess;PerformanceTesting;Dimen
8、—sionalStability羊毛是一種可持續(xù)生長(zhǎng)也可彈性好、吸濕性強(qiáng)、保暖性好等,贏性.適用于加工運(yùn)動(dòng)服和工作服.生物降解的天然纖維.羊毛紡織品以得了全球生產(chǎn)商和消費(fèi)者青睞。確保健康、安全。穿著采用羊毛纖其華貴高雅、穿著舒適的天然風(fēng)格羊毛纖維具有天然的彈性.自維制成的休閑服、運(yùn)動(dòng)服、工作服而著稱.特別是羊絨有著“軟黃金”然伸縮度達(dá)30%.同時(shí)又具有良好可有效控制人體出汗和異昧的產(chǎn)之